This is more like "Replacing a CrimeStopper RS999 Cool Start with an RS4-G5", but there are still a few bits that might prove useful. My brother-in-law is an auto mechanic by trade, and many years ago he installed a CoolStart RS999 in our mother-in-law's 1995 Mitsubishi Diamante.. Now the car is in my hands, and the remote start is fried. Over the years the car has been jump-started a few times, and I suspect that cooked the brains in the old RS999. On top of that, nobody can find the remote. Time for a new unit.
So I hit up Amazon and pick up a newer model from the same company. I cheaped out and got a RS4-G5 1-way remote instead of a 2-way remote like the old RS-999. The reason I went cheapskate is if I blew the install, I wanted to be able to take it to a shop and get one professionally installed, without feeling like I threw away too much money.
Googling online for manuals confirms that the old RS-999 and new RS4-G5 units share almost identical wiring patterns. Nice. This proved out to be crucial, actually. And let me say, I owe my brother-in-law big. He did a real nice job on the original install.
I had the manuals for both the old and new remote starts. You can find manuals online with some basic googling, so you won't have any difficulty finding manuals.
YouTube did not have much useful information to yield on the installation. But I did find one excellent tip amongst the junk. Check out this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L61LJcz7H6g and go in about a minute. The homemade gizmo with two alligator clips? This should be standard equipment with every single soldering iron sold. I wish I had thought of this myself, cuz' I'da been trying to market it for millions. That device is just plain required equipment for auto wiring. It just is. I made one, and if all you get out of this article is this bit about the alligartor clip gizmo, it's worth it.
Whenever I did a splice, I did it like Eric the Car Guy did. I used heat-shrink tubing for insulation, and when all the wires where done, they got a generous black electrical tape go-around. So that covers how I did the splices.
Anyhow, that said, because I was really replacing a remote start, and not installing one from scratch, most of the real blood, sweat, and tears had already been shed by my brother-in-law. I did not have to hunt down a tach wire, install the hood pin safety switch, and most importantly, not have to find the dreaded door lock/unlock wires.
If you google "1995 Mitsubishi Diamante Wiring Diagram", you will find this excellent site for auto alarm installers. With the information here, and an additional look at a Chilton manual for a 1995 Mitsubishi Diamante , I see I'm looking for a red/blue wire with dots, and a red/black wire with dots. Guess what? Those wires were probably the first two wires installed in the factory, installed right against a bright shiny body shell, then overlapped with probably a mile of wiring harnessess, fuseboxes, and so on. I decided I could live without the door lock/unlock capability; a tough decision. But the story has a happy ending, as I shall tell.
Oh yeah, the obvious: Disconnect the car battery before beginning, and if at all in doubt, give up and let an auto shop do the work.
Looking at the manuals for the old and new remotes side-by-side, they use the same wiring color scheme. On the high-voltage connector on the old RS-999 unit, there are seven wires; and the new RS4-G5 unit has six wires on the high-voltage connector. The only difference is the white wire on the high voltage connector of the RS-999 matches up with the white wire on the low-voltage connector on the RS4-G5. Otherwise, the other six wires match up color-for-color. I spliced in the new high-voltage connector color-for-color to the old high voltage connector, leaving the white wire from the old conenctor dangling for now.
The low-voltage connector was similar, but there were a lot more wires in there. Fortunately, the colors do match up wire-for-wire, so I spliced in the new connector in place of the old one. The only difference here is I attached that white wire which was on the old unit's high-voltage connector. The wire is for the dome light, and in both the old and new manuals, the even use the same illlustrations so I was pretty confident. Of course, the best thing to do would have been to use a voltmeter and spend a lot of time verifying this, but what can I say? I went for it.
So yeah, I spliced in the new low-voltage wire connector color-for-color in place of the old connector.
Because the old unit was a two-way, and the new unit a one-way, the antenna connectors were not the same, and neither were the antennas, I did run the new antenna in place, and had to pry off the interior trim panel which runs from the roof to the dashboard. It snaps in place, so it fortunately came out without too much of a battle. The antenna is attached with some two-way foam sticky tape, and adheres nicely. I ran the wire by tucking it under the headliner, down that side panel piece, and into the rubber door trim. The wire can then be tucked up into the dash so it is entirely hidden from view.
The new kit comes with little wire harnesses for adding in a temporary LED and pushbutton switch for programming the unit. Because the keys come pre-programmed, I found it unnecessary to use either the pushbutton or LED.
Oh yeah, where to actually install the unit? The previous unit was up under the dash, held in place with zip ties. You could zip tie it up in there, but I found that there is enough space behind the knee kick plate whic surrounds the steering column and steering height adjuster. That kick plate comes off with three 10mm bolts and two screws. Right above the trunk release switch there is enough space to stuff the RS4-G5. Worth mention, taking that knee kick plate out will make the install a ton easier.
So at this stage, I got a RS4-G5 with a high-voltage connector, a low-voltage connector, and the antenna connector. I plug the connectors in, and reconnect the battery.
And it works! No doors, though.
And that is where the miracle occurs. I thank Jesus, and when I come across my bro-in-law, I'll thank him, too. I get to working on installing the RS4-G5 in its permanent home, and I find this small three-wire connector dangling, with a red, green, and blue wire. Which so happens to be the wire colors which plug into the three-connector door control jack on the RS4-G5. And yes, it fit! Which means my brother-in-law, God bless him, had previously tapped into those impossible-to-reach door control wires. And all I had to do was plug in the connector! Amen. No, make, that AMEN. The remote operates the door lock/unlock.
So yeah, I got the unit behind that kick panel, and everything all sanitized and looking respectul. It tooke me almost all of a Saturday to accomplish but it worked. If I had to do this from scratch, I'd say "forget this!" and pay a shop to do the install. But in this case, it was pretty cheap, and a learning experience.
It works. I'm happy.
So in closing, I'll say:
- If you are thinking of installing an automotive remote start from scratch, and there is no existing remote start in there, you might want to pay somebody else. Save your hair.
- If you got an existing remote start that is dead, and you are going to be sticking in a similar unit, get online and compare the old and new devices. You might get lucky like I did, and find most of the wiring is the same between the two units. This is a better candidate for do-it-yourself.
- That two alligator clip thing that Eric the Car Guy has? You need one of those.